sleepytako

Oito Line Loop Route Pt. 1: Adventure!

2012-01-29T13:33:00.000+09:00

1. Shibushi Station

Two observations:
1- Adventure is fun.
2- Japan is a great place for adventures.

For me adventure involves traveling. Be it exploring the hills around my childhood home, driving through northern Nevada at 4AM in a snow storm, or, as my current geographical location provides, an extremely long train journey. Keeping a somewhat childish sense of adventure keeps me sane. It's that adventure that I use to keep me going through the sometimes trying job of being an adult.

Japan is a great place for adventures for a few reasons. First off its foreign. No matter how long I live here and how at home I feel, there's always something or someplace to explore even in my own neighborhood. Of course, I can do this in the USA, but being in a foreign land adds a bit more excitement. An added layer of challenge and complication thanks to culture and language. I'm saying this even though I feel that my understanding of both the Japanese culture and language is advanced to a degree. You cannot just by living here claim "Japan Expert" status. It has to be gained by the through study and the recommendations of your peers.

2. Nihonheso Koen

The compactness of Japan also lends it's self adventure. One can cover a great amount of territory in a small period of time. It is quite easy to get a glimpse of a neighborhood or city and decide what areas are worth exploring and which ones aren't. There are lots of things to find too. Odd shopping streets, seemingly unused, yet modestly maintained, temples and shrines dot the landscape hidden in miniature forest, old neighborhoods surrounded by new highrise apartment buildings, the neon glow of the quasi-legal gambling parlors and the quasi-legal brothels, the noisy bar and restaurant streets, small pedestrian only paths swaying between houses and rice fields.

3. Nima Sand Museum

The greatest benefactor to the adventurer is Japan's immense public transportation systems. From pedestrian walkways to trains and buses It's easy to get from one place to another. One of my favorite things to do is choose two stations route a walk between them through unknown territory. Another is searching for local sentos which I have developed an entire website around. The greatest assistance can be found in special discount tickets such as the Kansai Thru Pass and the Seishun 18 Kippu.

4. Amarube

The Kansai Thru Pass is good for a majority the private, non-JR, railways in the Kansai area including some buses. It's sold year round to tourists on temporary visitor visas and a few times a year to the general public. The Seishun 18 Kippu is much more advantageous however. It gives you free passage on any normal JR train that doesn't need a second express or seat fare for any 5 days during a predetermined month and a half period in the winter, spring and summer.

The other great benefit of this ticket is that you can get on and off anytime you want with no worry about cost. See a station you like, get off. Just be sure you know when the next train is coming cause it might not be for a few hours. But that's part of the fun isn't it.

5. Miki Railway

The basic details for the ticket can be found on many sites in English and Japanese. Japan Guide has one of the best. Wikipedia is good also. If you can read Japanese or get by with Rikaichan this site is also very informative.

What I want to do while is give you some of my hints about using the ticket while walking through my overnight circle trip to ride the Oito line from the Japan Sea coast in Niigata to Matsumoto, Nagano. And I'll begin that in Part 2.

Photo notes

1. A globe monument found in front of Shibushi station in Kagoshima pref.

2. A trip to Nihonheso Koen, or Japan's Bellybutton Park in Nishiwaki, Hyogo to find the geographic center of Japan on my GPS.
3. The world's largest sandglass is in a museum a short walk through a very rural neighborhood. Found in Nima, Shimane.
4. I stumbled on the beautiful Amarube bridge almost by mistake on a Seishun 18 Kippu trip to Tottori. Less than a year after taking this photo the bridge was demolished.

6. Sinclair Station - Kanab, Utah

5. Like the Amarube bridge, the Miki Railway is no longer with us. Traveling by train has a sense of shared experience for young and old that is part of the adventure.
6. Before coming to Japan my adventuring companion, and means was my 4x4 Dodge Dakota pickup outfitted with a futon in the rear, camping supplies, water and extra gasoline.

01.04 Toyama City Street

2012-01-25T20:33:00.001+09:00

01.04toyamacitystreet-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Toyama city street near the near the Toyama Light Rail Higashiiwase station.
富山ライトレールの東岩瀬駅近い。

Nariai-ji 成相寺 #28

2012-01-12T22:11:00.000+09:00

Amanohashidate from Kasamatsukoen

Nariai-ji is a secluded temple up the slope a mountain overlooking Amanohashidate 天橋立 in northern Kyoto prefecture on the Sea of Japan. The temple is part of the Kasamatukoen 傘松公園 area on the far side of Amanohashidate.

I guess I should begin by explaining what Amanohashidate is. It's a spit of sandy land that makes a small land bridge closing off a bay. One of Japan's most unusual geographical features and one of Japan's three most beautiful landscapes. I went there 6 years ago before I was married or had a job, and when I took too many photos. Here's 118 photos I uploaded to flickr from the experience. It was my first trip as an exchange student. Who would have thought that I would be coming back to the exact same place but going to a temple. I had gone there just to check out what this place was and look at Amanohashidate between my legs as the the custom says. I wasn't that interested in temples back then.

A family on the new viewing platform

Walking up to the cable car

It was Yuko's first time here in 20 years or more. On the way there she told a story of here father taking the family there on a day trip and deciding the spend the night instead despite having no change of clothes or any overnight goods. They got the last room available in the city at the minshuku run by the attendant of the parking lot they used. Sounds fun.

Yuko was a little worred about the snow and getting there, but we had no problem. The freeways get you right there and the roads in the city were all plowed. It was actually a great time to go as there really weren't that many people there. Only a few families out and about as it was Dec 30th and everyone was heading to their homes for the New Year's celebrations.

Cable car station

We parked our car and walked up to the cable car station. There we learned that there was a hitch in our plan. The cable car was running to the viewing area up the hill, but the bus that runs from there to the temple was out of service because of heavy snow. We still wanted to look down on Amanohashidate so we got the ticket up and went to the top. There we learned that the walk would take 30 to 45 minutes. Given the time and if we didn't linger too long at the temple we could make it. So hiking up the mountain we went.

Yuko hiking up the mountain

It was a little tough and I ended up getting pretty sweaty under my heavy jacket plus a sleepy Mia on my back, but we got up there in 20 or 25 minutes. Not too bad. Getting down was the difficult part as it was harder to get a good grip on the icy road.

The pagoda and a ton of snow

The temple itself has a gate down near the entrance then a few hundred yards up there's a pagoda and parking lot for those who want to drive up to the temple. The final stairs up the the main temple were rather steep and only a single track was shoveled out allowing the few people there to get up to the temple.

The temple entrance

The temple, surrounded by snow in the afternoon sun, was georgous. A wonderful goal after a short, but hard hike. We walked in and waited to get out scroll signed. The monk who signed the scroll told us a story about the founding of the Saikoku pilgrimage. Well he told Yuko mostly as the Japanese was well above my understanding although it was little tough for Yuko also. After the story ended and he signed our scroll we received a special sange, a paper seal in a leaf shape with a image from the temple, that was printed about 20 years ago. The sange was part of a series commemorating the 1,000 year anniversary of the pilgrimage route. He gave us the sange as a special gift for visiting the temple. Maybe because he could tell we hiked up, or because I was a foreigner or just because he liked us, but we were really honored to hear the story from him and get the sange.

The sange

As part of a JR West promotion the Saikoku temples have been giving out smaller sange for the last two years or so. We've been collecting those also, but the special sange we got at Nariai-ji is something special that we'll always treasure.

After exploring the inside of the temple we headed back into the snow. In front of the temple was a large tub with ladles for purification. The tub was originally the bath for the monks in the temple although they would never actually climb in it, but only ladle water from tub.

The tub

We made our way back down well before the last cable car of the day, took a few photos at the viewpoint before getting off the mountain. We were so excited and happy about how well everything went and our experience at the temple. It was much better hiking to the temple from the viewpoint. Putting some effort into getting to each temple makes arriving there so much more fulfilling. You can get an idea of how the faithful before cars and trains had to struggle and suffer to complete this pilgrimage which is a pleasant day out for us in the modern world.

Drying the ink

On the way home we had dinner in the local shopping center and stopped in Fukuchiyama, Kyoto to check out the super-sento there, Fukuchiyama Onsen. I'll post a review on I Love Yu soon.

Links:

The single track of stairs

Photos of Nariai-ji in the summer on taleofgenji.org
Miyazu Amanohashidate Tourist Information Center [Japanese]
Nariai-ji homepage [Japanese]
A tale from Nariai-ji and a song mentioning its name from "Songs to Make the Dust Dance: the Ryōjin Hishō of Twelfth-century Japan." Google Books.
A postcard, most likely pre-war as the Japanese is written left to right, showing a women dressed in a kimono being carried up to the temple. See how wide the stairs are when they aren't covered in snow. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
A woodblock print of Nariai-ji in the snow from 1858. From the Japanese Art Open Database.
There's a few more photos in the flickr set for our trip.

Some family shots from the viewing area. Mia slept most of the hike up and at the temple, but she woke up and started crying on the way down. We're both doing are boo-boo faces. She's also too small to look at Amanohashidate through her own legs so I let her use mine!

Chome-ji 長命寺 #31

2012-01-07T09:00:00.000+09:00

Looking down from the bell tower

Chome-ji was originally built in 619 and the name of the temple means "long life." Located on a hill over looking a inlet of the large Biwa-ko lake, it offers a beautiful view and a peaceful retreat from city.

The final stairs

Number 31 of the Western Japan Kannon pilgramage route Chome-ji is a few kilo from Omihachiman station in rural Shiga prefecture. The temple is located on a hill side and is traditionally accessed by walking the 808 stairs from shore of the lake. Nowadays, you can drive up most of the way, but that's too easy. The hike isn't too tough, but remember that they are old stone steps that are uneven and irregularly spaced. Good shoes and careful hiking is recommended, especially when heading down.

The bell

The stairs climb through a bamboo, then pine forest as you get to the temple. The wind blows through the bamboo knocking it around and making a beautiful chanting-like soundtrack for your walk. The main temple and pagoda is surrounded by pines and some very unique exposed boulders. A garden with a pond runs behind the main temple and under one of the adjacent buildings. To the left there is a bell tower that anyone can ring and the right is a pagoda. The bell makes a most wonderful tone and must be experienced. The pagoda was burnt and rebuilt 3 times. It was restored and repainted in the 1960's (if I remember correctly) so it retains some of it's red color. My baby daughter Mia really got excited looking at the pagoda for some reason. She was gasping in awe and laughing at it as Yuko and I were reading the sign.

Two workers cleaning and tending to the garden.

There is a nice open space with some benches where you can sit and look out on the lake and watch the sky. We arrived in the afternoon as the sun was lowering in front of us casting long shadows across the ground. A family was having a day out running up and down the stairs for fun and / or exercise. A few other visitors were about quietly taking in the temple and relaxing, peaceful atmosphere.

The sun shining into the temple

The main image of a thousand armed Kannon is not viewable to the general public and is held behind a wall in the main building. For as big as the main building looks not much of it is accessible to visitors. It's one of the shallowest temples that I've been to and not much to see to be truthful. The real attraction here is the location.

The main building

Make sure you bring water with you on your hike. We didn't bring anything and were thirsty the entire time. There is a public toilet in the upper parking lot with non-potable water. At the entrance to the stairs at the bottom of the hill there is a small omiyage shop with drinks and walking sticks. Parking at the omiyage shop is also free. We also took the wrong path initially up the hill walking up the street. The stairs actually begin to the right of the small jinja behind the shop. Ohmi buses run to the little park in front of the shop from Omihachiman station.

More information:
Sacred Japan
Biwako Visitors Bureau

New Year's Letter... Looking back on 2011

2012-01-06T11:24:00.001+09:00

I wrote a end of the year letter to my uncle in the USA and thought it would be good to share it with you all on my blog also.

Dear friends and family,

2011 was a very hard year for us in Japan with theearthquake and tsunami. I was teaching a class on March 11^th when ithit. The shear power of the quake was frightful. It felt unlike any quake I’vebeen in. It felt evil. I’m 480 miles south of Fukushima. It would be the sameif you felt an earthquake centered Los Angeles all the way in Tucson.

Mia at the start 2011.

Down here near Osaka the earthquake did not affect us somuch, but I feel like I should try to do more to help the victims. Some priceswhen up. There was a shortage of batteries for a while. Life soon returned tonormal, almost too soon. I think one of the most amazing traits of the Japanesepeople built up after thousands of years living in a disaster prone area is theability to stoically get up and keep on going after a disaster. At my work thenext day everyone was right there getting things done with little to no talkabout the quake. I’m sure at home and among friends things were different, butwork was work. There might have been an element of trying to keep a strong facefor our students also.

The quake was the most defining moment of the year for us,but there were many good things also.

During the spring break at the end of the school year herewe spent the night in Ako at the western border of Hyogo, prefecture. There weate the most amazing Italian food and spent the night at a ryokan (a Japanesestyle inn that serves dinner and breakfast) with a hot spring that had outdoorbaths overlooking the Seto Inland Sea.

In May we went up to Matsumoto in Nagano prefecture to visitYuko’s friend there. We stayed one night at a great little ryokan that had aperfect opaque white sulfur hot spring. I got to ride the local train andexplore the town and its many mineral water springs set up for drinking. Theweather was just perfect up in the mountains and it reminded me of easternCalifornia and the Sierras.

In the last few weeks over winter break we were able tospend the night at a ryokan in Wakayama. The hotel is on it’s own island andyou have to take a boat there. We went with my former coworker who’s wife isalso Japanese and they have a son who’s a year or so older than Mia. I guessI’m officially middle-aged now that I’m doing family stuff with other families.

During summer break we got a quick trip to Tucson in. It wasgreat seeing Mia swim in the pool. I miss the dry heat in the desert. Japan isso humid and wet in the summer. The trip was fun but we didn’t many activitiesor go many places. I got to drive all of my sister’s stuff in a giant U-Haultruck from Los Angeles to Tucson. Driving in Japan is fun, but I miss Americanroads too. Especially going through the Mojave and crossing the Colorado.

Mia's first birthday.

We really didn’t do much on the trip because on our firstnight in Tucson Yuko woke me up at 4 am complaining of massive stomach pains.So after getting Mom to watch Mia, I drove her down to the local hospital whereshe was admitted to the ER. It was scary to see my wife in such pain in thehospital. She was a bit scared too and worried about her English—although thestaff complemented her on how well she spoke. While painful, it was just akidney stone. After a CAT scan and some other tests she was released later thatmorning with some painkillers. The staff was very caring with her despitehaving to deal with the strange, loud, crazy and somewhat scary people who werein the ER with us. It was a learning experience for us both. I have to say thatthe quasi-public health care system in Japan is 1,000 times better than what wehave in the states. Frankly, one of my biggest worries about returning to theUS is health care and health insurance. This short trip to the ER cost $6,000!Thankfully we had travel insurance that covered all the costs.

So for the remainder of our trip we basically spent aroundmy mom’s house, as Yuko was in bed in pain a lot of the time. Despite that weall had fun and we’re looking forward to going back again in 2012.

In America I bought a hiking backpack to put Mia in. It’sturned out to be so incredibly useful and fun. We didn’t get to use it much inTucson, but in Japan I use it instead of a stroller. There are so many stairsand uneven roads that strollers are just so inconvenient. It’s also a lot offun because people in Japan just don’t use them so everywhere we go Mia gets alot of attention. I break it down this way: 75% because she’s so cute, 20%because of her saddle (the backpack), 5% because of her horse (me). And that’sa generous 5% I’m giving myself!

Before winter got started I’d take Mia out in the backpack2~3 times a week. We’d walk town the river by our house to the bay or take atrain out someplace and walk between two not so distant stations and take adifferent train back home. She gets sucha kick out of it and always perks up when I get the backpack out.

Mia in the backpack hiking up to a temple.

We’re also using the backpack when we go to temples. We’vebeen to quite a few this year. It’s always fun to strap her in and climb up theubiquitous long flight of stairs up the side of a mountain to the temple Thetemples are all always so peaceful with nature and fresh air all around them.The break from the crowded and dirty cities is always refreshing. The monks, templeworkers and other visitors all just adore Mia and her happy personality too.

Mia has grown so much it’s quite amazing. She only justbegan to walk in August and she’s basically all about walking now. Hercomprehension is quite high in Japanese and English. She can say many understandablethings like mom (mama), dad (da), train (dencha – the Japnese word), food(mamata – that’s her own word), please (peeez), thank you (atto – afterJapanese “arigato”), Blues Clues (Buooo – children’s TV program), Peek a boo(Nai nai ba – Japanese version), Nao (Naooo – Our neighbor’s son’s name), seeyou, bye-bye and so on. She’ll also just carry on for minutes at a time in herown special language. I’m so proud and just blown away by how smart she is.She’s also such a happy baby. She’s not scared of other children or otherpeople. I like to say that she’s great at aisatsu, or greetings, a veryimportant part of Japanese culture.

Mia at the end of 2011.

I’ve been busy working 6-day weeks (5 at school and 1 at thebar) and not having enough time at home. Last term I had many specialassignments that really killed me as I did most of the work myself. Thankfully,they all finished without any huge disasters and I got a ton of praise from mycoworkers, vice principal, and the principal himself. I’ve decided I need to doless time at the bar for my health and to free up some time so I could startattending classes online. My hot spring review and information website(iloveyu.jp) also needs so much more work that I just can’t get myself to do.On the other hand, I’ve taken some amazing photos this year and made someincredible worksheets, classes and videos at work including the website for thebar I work at (wexfordtavern.jp). Because of Mia I don’t get to take long traintrips anymore, but I still was able to get a few short local trips in. Going ona little adventure now and then is so much fun and I never want to stop doingit. Back in America I’d drive across the desert and small highways, here I takelocal trains and walk around sleepy villages. Soon enough Mia and I will begoing on these adventures.

Thank you for reading my little blog. I don't do as much with it as I want but I hope to have some extra content about taking trains and more restaurant tips up in 2012. We hope you’re all in good health for 2012 and that it turnsout to be a great one for you.

Yours truly,

David, Yuko and Mia

Nara Park Photowalk

2012-01-01T19:58:00.000+09:00

Nara Park is the general name given to the temples and parkland on the slope of Mt. Wakakusa east of the two Nara stations. The park includes many UNESCO World Heritage sites including Kofuku-ji and Todai-ji, the world's largest wooden building. It's also inhabited by many somewhat tame deer.

I went on a photo walk with two of my coworkers last month. This summer we'll be hosting a group of exchange students from New Zealand and we'll be taking them to the park on a day trip.

Here are some of my favorite photos from the walk.

This is one of the ponds throughout the park. It's probably the most seen an photographed because of its prominent location. The pagoda in the background is part of Kofuku-ji.

Deer hanging out in front of a biscuit stand like teenagers in front of a Circle K trying to get an adult to buy them some beer.

The wall around Todai-ji.

Nara park is very popular with school trips. On our walk we saw students from Aomori all the way in the north of Japan. There were also student tour groups from Australia, New Zealand and Indonesia in the park.

Alcohol, in this case sake, is a popular offering to deities or relatives. Cans, empty and full, are often scattered around temples and shrines often near statues.

The temple shop in Nigetsudo.


A lone man comes to pray at the temple. On cold winter days one can find some solitude in these temples, but when the summer comes around they will be much more crowded.

The rest of the photos I took on that day can be found in my Nara Park Photowalk set on flickr.

Happy New Year: 2012!

2012-01-01T16:13:00.000+09:00

Another year has passed. It has been a difficult year for many people in Japan and around the world. We hope that you are all happy, healthy and safe and that we all enjoy a fresh start in 2012.

MIA UPDATE!

Mia is now 1 1/2 years old! She is 2 feet 7 inches tall, 22 pounds, walking and talking. Her favorite toy is a can of noodle sauce that she carries around the house. She loves going on walks in her backpack. Tomatoes are her favorite food.

With Love,
David, Yuko and Mia

Kakogawa Greenhouse

2011-12-19T22:16:00.001+09:00

Kakogawa Greenhouse, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Long out of use greenhouse or growing beds along a highway in Kagokawa, Hyogo.

11.20 Kakogawa Gas Station

2011-12-11T11:04:00.001+09:00

11.20 Kakogawa Gas Station, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

11.20 Kakogawa Apartment Building

2011-11-28T22:28:00.001+09:00

11.20 Kakogawa Apartment Building, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #5

2011-11-05T12:19:00.001+09:00

10.10Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #4-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

10.10 Sports Day Trip to Tsuruga #4

2011-11-03T22:25:00.001+09:00

10.10Sports Day Trip to Tsuruga #4, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

The port area in Tsuruga.

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #3

2011-10-31T21:51:00.001+09:00

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #3, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

The Sea of Japan in the distance.

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #2

2011-10-24T21:21:00.001+09:00

Pigeons hanging out, being pigeons.

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #2, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

10.10 Yamashina Station Kiosk 山科駅

2011-10-18T23:40:00.001+09:00

10.10 Yamashina Station Kiosk 山科駅, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

10.10 Sports Day Trip to Tsuruga #1

2011-10-17T21:45:00.001+09:00

10.10 Sports Day Trip to Tsuruga #1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Teenagers walking through the tunnels of Tsuruga station on Sports Day, 2011.

08.02 Anaoji Garden

2011-10-03T21:56:00.001+09:00

08.02Anaoji-2, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Taking photos of Japanese gardens is hard. So many people do it so well and that's all they do. I just liked the red carpet.

08.02 Anao-ji 穴太寺

2011-09-28T23:01:00.001+09:00

08.02Anaoji-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Mama washing Mia's hands before going to the temple to pray.

Anao-ji temple, Kameoka city, Kyoto Pref.

09.04 ShinImamiya Station 南海新今宮駅

2011-09-25T13:20:00.001+09:00

09.04ShinImamiya-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Looking Back #4 Estate - Lincon, Montana

2011-09-23T10:25:00.001+09:00

12.14estate-montana-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

I lived in Montana for 6 months or so with my old film camera, a laptop, a shortwave radio and my green Dodge Dakota. Took some classes at the University of Montana. Learned how to drive in the snow. Learned that it's cold up there. Moved to Tucson.

Symbols for Large and Small

2011-09-21T23:53:00.001+09:00

A toilet in the LAX Marriott - August, 2011

Most Japanese toilets have a two way flushing mechanismallowing the user to choose between large, marked with the kanji 大, orsmall, marked with 小. Itseemed natural. It’s a great way to save water and money. Why hadn’t these toiletsbeen introduced in Tucson or Los Angeles where water is scarce? A definite problemwould be what symbols to use for 大 and 小.

My problem, as the solutionin the photo shows, was that I was trying to do a direct translation of 大 tolarge and 小 to small. I failed to consider the mechanicsof the device itself. Large would flush the entire tank while small would flush,more or less, half.

For more about human/landscape/object relations see: Future Perfect.

09.04 Morning Beer and Betting

2011-09-11T12:42:00.001+09:00

09.04MorningBeerandBetting-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

A good morning happoshu to get ready for a day at the track.

Looking Back #3 Imperial Food Market

2011-08-16T22:07:00.003+09:00

03.032004ImperialFoodMarket-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Throughout 2003-2005 I spent a lot of time in Imperial County, CA trying to understand it. Imperial Co is one of the most agriculturally important regions to the USA providing vegetables throughout the winter. It's dreadfully hot in the summer. It's polluted by pesticides and fertilizers. It hosts the southern half of the man-made Salton Sea and one of the best hot springs in the nation. It's towns act as Afghanistan for Hollywood's location scouts.

The region has a great many left over or under maintained commercial buildings that my lens gravitated towards. I loved this font and motif. No clue what use to be on the top. Perhaps a logo for a cola or brand of bread.

P.S. I'm posting this at 6AM PST as I sit, jet-lagged, in a Los Angeles hotel room. It's fun and interesting being back in the USA. Massive amounts of reverse culture shock going on. I'm documenting the trip over on my baby daughter's blog. It's her first trip to the states. Needless to say, she won't remember it, but one day into the trip and she's been having a ton of fun.

Xingiang Time @ Myopic

2011-08-15T21:49:00.001+09:00

Untitled, a photo by gofeetgo on Flickr.

Check out my great friend Hannah's trip to the Xinjiang region of western China. Beautiful, complicated, intriguing countryside photographed in the most amazing way.

Via Flickr:
Assalamu Alaikum!

We spent two weeks on six 8-24 hour buses circling and crossing the Taklimakan Desert in Xinjiang, the farthest west province in China. Here's our picture story.

"Xinjiang Time" www.myopic.us/xinjiangtime

Burger King has Come to Kansai

2011-08-07T18:42:00.003+09:00

Burger King has returned to Kansai, but it's really not too much to talk about.

I went by on a Saturday or Sunday (can’t remember, too lazy to look up) assuming to be in a super long line, but found the wait to be a few minutes. Nothing more than a typical McDonald's on the weekends.

The burger tasted like a Burger King burger. Nothing too special. You’re able to customize the burger to a degree. I added the mustard and that was nice. Perhaps the best thing about the whole meal. You can see the menu here.

The fries were fine. I remember 10 years ago (or more) when BK changed their fries to these buttery popcorn tasting things. I hated them and I quit eating at BK for that reason. It was nice to find out that these fries were different. I also got the cheese potato nuggets. Not too bad, but exactly the same as the cheese potato things from DomDom burger.

The restaurant is quite small to say the least with a well shut off smoking area. Three tables against the far wall had iPod jacks and directional speakers allowing you to choose your own music following with the theme of “choice” in their menu.

All in all not too much to report. It’s a chain burger joint. Make sure to check their website for coupons before you go.

Open 24 hours.

Located near the Bic Camera in Namba.
Map
Coupons

More Burgers on Sleepytako:
http://sleepytako.blogspot.com/2009/10/nishinomiya-city-of-hamburgers.html

August J・Festa (BlogMatsuri) "Food in Japan" @ Japingu:
http://japingu.com/2011/08/01/j-festa-august-2011-theme/

Hyogo: More on Meibutsu

2011-07-21T16:19:00.000+09:00

A larger PDF of this page is available here

After writing last week's post about Toyooka and its bag industry I got the Hyogo prefecture citizen's newspaper in my mailbox... well everyone in the prefecture did. What did it have on the cover? A map of the meibutsu food items produced around the prefecture.

A few of the generally known ones were there:

Octopus たこ from Akashi
Beef 肉用牛 from, well, all over the prefecture
Onions たまねぎ in Awaji
Tanba Black Beans 丹波黒 in Tanba, although they put the picture in Taijima and Harima also.
Crab かに in Taijima

Some suprises:

Chrysanthemums きく in Settsu
Eggplant なす in Tanba
Figs いちじく in Settsu

~ Bonus geography lesson ~

The internal divisions of Hyogo that follows the pre-Meiji era boundaries more or less are as follows:
([name in kanji]:[color on map])

Settsu (摂津: green) is the area that consists of the urban Hanshin area centered around Kobe and including Nishinoimya. Where I live.
Harima (播磨: orange) is the area of mixed rural and industrial use land spanning from Settsu to the Okayama prefecture border centered around Himeji. Spanning the coast from Akashi to Ako.
Tanba (丹波: blue)is the rural agrarian highlands that are above the Keihanshin (Kyoto-Osaka-Kobe) urban area. Centered around the town of Sasayama.
Tajima (但馬: pink) consists of Hyogo's Japan sea coast and the agricultural areas in in the northern reaches of the prefecture. Centered around the city of Toyooka and the onsen town of Kinosaki.
Awaji (淡路: purple) consists of the agricultural island between Hyogo and Shikoku. This area has only recently seen a boom thanks to the Awaji bridge built in the 90's.

The entire paper is free to download from the website here. [in Japanese]

Japanese Landsape: City of Bags - Toyooka

2011-07-12T14:02:00.001+09:00

Toyooka Station 豊岡駅, 2006

Mebutsu is an often used word when talking about one’s city in Japan. It’s of interest to the geographer and Madison Avenue alike. It means, literally, “famous thing,” but it can be better understood as the product a given area is famous for. Almost every city has some sort of mebutsu. Some of them go back ages, some of them are brand new mebutsu that have been designed and marketed--just like the girls from AKB48--to appeal to the Japanese tourist’s pocketbook.

In this photo taken in the Summer of 2008 on a short train trip up to Kinosaki Onsen I stopped in Toyooka to change trains. There was this prominently placed sign stating:

かばんのまち豊岡
City of Bags - Toyooka

Bags! Toyooka (豊岡市) the largest city in northern Hyogo, closer to the Japan Sea coast than to fashionable, designer brand loving Kobe is famous for bags? It seems so improbable, but bags have to be made somewhere I supposed. After returning I asked my Japanese co-workers and friends and all of them knew that Toyooka was famous for bags.

A quick Japanese Wikipeida search reveals that the origin of the Toyooka bag goes back to the 8th century. Wicker trucks were produced using the plentiful willows that grew in the head waters of the Maruyama river that flows through the city. In modern times the Toyooka trunks were first presented to the world in during an expo in 1881. Later in 1917 the trunks were improved by coating them with lacquer and fitting them with locks. The development then turned away from wicker to fiber and then synthetic fiber bags. Production of bags and trunks has continued to today and the city prominently features them as the first two items in it’s English language tourist website.

So Toyooka is famous for bags. Almost every city has some sort of mebutsu. What’s your city’s mebutsu? What’s the strangest mebutsu you’ve seen?

A more in-depth discussion of the marketing and development of mebutsu can be found here.

Looking Back #2 - Recycled Roadrunner

2011-07-11T12:11:00.001+09:00

It's a bird, it's a plane, it's... well... it's just a bird. A roadrunner to be exact.

On the lonely I-10 trucking east through a bit of New Mexico before the long hard stretch of Texas looking out over the Rio Grande is a statue of the state bird, the majestic desert dweller known as the roadrunner... made entirely of trash from a closed landfill. Installed sometime in 2000, Roadside America's readers report that the creator is a mystery, but that it originally was built at the city dump where the bird's "contents" came from and then moved to it's present location.

Ever vigilant, looking out over the city of Las Cruces.

Location: The roadrunner is located on a scenic overlook only accessible by the eastbound lanes of the I-10 as you come into Las Cruces.
Price: Free

View Larger Map

My Local Bar: The Wexford Tavern

2011-07-03T11:13:00.000+09:00

Recently I was asked by Kaley about my favorite place in Japan. This is a hard question. A very hard question for a geographer like myself. The first thing that came to mind were a few of my favorite onsen and sento. I have a site full of them for god-sakes! Then I thought about some of my favorite train stations scattered across rural Japan. What about the temples? None of these single sites however encapsulated my experience here on their own. For Kaley, and you, I wanted to choose a location that I could say has been a massive positive effect on my life and my view of Japan. A place that I hope you could find in your neighborhoods.

I often cannot understand how people living here can complain so much about the country on the various gaijin blogs and message boards. Why don’t I complain like that? Why am I immune to the problems that bother many other fellow foreigners here? A lot of it has to do with mindset and language ability I can imagine, but, very important, is having a sense of community in the place you live. And this, I must add, is independent of Japan but a worldwide phenomenon. Community is important. I’ve lived in an apartment building where I never knew my neighbors. It’s not that appealing and somewhat dangerous.

So where do I find that Community? My local bar: The Wexford Tavern or The Wex as it’s known. Ever since moving to Japan I’ve been going there. The first location was a small 10 seat counter on the first floor of the owner’s house. It was there that I first met Yuko who would later become my wife and the mother to our daughter Mia. Just that fact would should put The Wex as my most important place in Japan. When we got married a few years after that first meeting we also had our wedding party at the bar. It seemed appropriate as most of the people we invited were also regulars or at least sometime customers.

Our Wedding Party

Soon after I first started going to The Wex back in 2005 they moved to a larger location down the street a bit. At the second location I really began to become a regular customer. I was hard at work studying Japanese and spent much of my time away from my fellow English speaking classmates and drinking in Japanese bars mostly. The Wex became my English speaking time. As I ended up being there more and more and interacting with the Japanese customers it became my Japanese practice time too. Now, in either language, it’s just chatting. My speaking ability has a lot to do with sitting around and blabbering in Japanese for hours about who knows what.

The community at the Wex has beginning language learners to masters of English, Japanese, and a few more languages. It’s a place where you can try out your foreign language ability--a place many of my college students are looking for, but I’m not at liberty to tell them. You’ll often hear someone yelling across the bar how do you say this or that since at least one person there would know. One of the regulars really began speaking English at the Wex and now he comes in and is blabbering on in English to the point that new customers think he’s Filipino! I’ve learned by watching him that the ample usage of the F word is the key to sounding like a native speaker.

Back when I had a beard.

The regulars at the Wex are for the most part long time residents of Japan, married with children and speak Japanese to various degrees of fluency. The range of personalities and characters makes it interesting. Sometimes we get heated in a conversation, but everyone leaves happy that they enjoyed drinking and chatting. It’s more of a local pub that just happens to be in Japan. It’s not a pick-up bar for Geos teachers here for a year or two. People do meet each other at the Wex. I mean, I met my wife there! The point is that it’s relaxed. It’s a safe place for women to come by themselves. Some customers don’t even drink, Yuko, stopped drinking and smoking sometime before getting pregnant, but she still enjoys having a ginger ale while talking to her friends. It’s the atmosphere.

The Wexford Tavern has played an important part of my life here in Japan and Nishinomiya. Without The Wex my neighborhood would be a totally different place. I’d really, actually consider moving to Shimane or Kagoshima rather than just blow hot air about it. If you’re in the neighborhood, by all means come up and have a drink. I’m sure you’ll have a good time.

www.wexfordtavern.jp
Access
Open from 6PM, 7 days a week.

Looking Back #1 - No Pallet Parking

2011-06-21T11:46:00.002+09:00

06.23palletparking-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Prior to coming to Japan, I lived in Tucson, AZ. This photo was taken on June 23, 2005 almost exactly 6 years ago. Judging by the clouds it was a hot, hot day in Tucson. Much like today here in Amagasaki where I write this post. The heat is different back in Arizona. It's dry. It feels different on the skin. Japan is much more sticky.

**Looking back is going to be an irregular post from my pre-Japan (pre-Flickr) photography of the deserts and detritus of the western United States.

Matsumoto Dentetsu (Alpico Kotsu) - Kamikochi Line | 松本電鉄 (アルピコ交通) 上高地線

2011-06-12T23:57:00.000+09:00

For a traveler, a landscape geographer and anyone who wonders what’s around the corner, Japan is one of the best countries to live or travel in. Despite it’s size, as compared to my birthplace in America, there is a such an outstanding variation in the landscapes both natural and cultural cramped into such a small place. What makes it even easer to explore is the abundance of public transportation thanks to it’s population density. The massive national railways, Japan Rail, of course, covers the most territory, but the complementary private railways are also quite interesting. In the major population areas around Osaka and Tokyo many private lines are in direct competition with JR, but in the rural areas these private lines feed into or supplement the JR lines. Some of them were even former JR lines that were sold off to local municipalities or companies. I’ve discussed the Miki, Hojo, Shigaraki, and Ohmi lines previously and rode on many more, but as I’ve been pouring over the Railway Mapple I’ve discovered many, many more of these lines that I never knew existed. More than I expected in fact.

The Front of a "Highland Rail" car with a sign promoting the local soccer club

Matsumoto Dentetsu 松本電鉄 or Alpico Kotsu アルピコ交通 as it has been renamed earlier this year is one of these spur lines that feed into the JR system. The single Kamikochi line travels west form Matsumoto in Nagano Pref. towards the popular ski and hot spring area of Kamikochi. I was given a chance to ride the line during a family weekend trip to see one of my wife’s friends from her study abroad program in Vancouver, BC. Thank you Yuko for letting me dork out on the trains for the afternoon, by the way.

The single line begins at platform 7 of JR Matsumoto station and ends 14.4km later at Shin Shimashima Station. Yes, 新島々駅, how’s that for a name. From the terminus hikers in spring and summer and skiers when there’s snow pack onto busses that take them further into the mountains.

Shinshimashima Station

After being dropped off by Yuko I was able to ride one way into Matsumoto from the terminus on the one-man train. Leaving Matsumoto station I had to show my simple paper ticket to the JR attendant as the majority of passengers went through the automatic turnstiles. It’s a testament to how well the public transit system works in Japan that it allows this dual use of the JR station by the private line.

At the beginning of the trip the train was only 15% full or so, but nearing Matsumoto it became quite packed leaving some people standing. Originally, I was worried that this line wasn’t getting enough ridership, but it seems the people from the suburbs, students, tourists and hikers can really fill up the two cars. The line hugged the southern hills that made up the valley that the train travels through. Sometimes the tracks would hug the slope of the valley as it passed around the houses and other development rather than travel through it. There were some uniquely placed stations thanks to this.

Matsumoto Dentetsu's platform at JR Matsumoto station

While not the prettiest of lines that I’ve been on, it was, for the most part, an enjoyable ride. I can imagine in winter with the snow on both sides the view must be quite magnificent as this photo from the Kamikochi line’s Wikipedia entry illustrates.

These third party lines give the casual traveler to the massive train dork a great affordable way to relax and experience the landscape and get to see a decent cross-section of the people who live in that landscape. Given the chance, I couldn’t recommend riding these local private lines more, the Kamikochi line included.

The Azusa River Tepco Hall, near Matsumoto, Nagano.

2011-06-11T00:07:00.002+09:00

05.21AzusaRiverTepcoHall-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Something tells me that Tepco will have to change it's logo. It's hard to imagine that the company will be able to stay around without a major image change. Even now that logo looks like a made up one for an evil company from a movie set in a Terminator-like dystopian future.

Taken through the window of the closed Asukakawa Tepco-kan, a science museum and Tepco PR spot that was closed indefinitely after the earthquake.

Matsumoto Pottery Shop

2011-06-07T23:26:00.000+09:00

05.21MatsumotoPottery-1, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

Loved the old store front here right down to those green tiles. I sucked some of the contrast and saturation out of the photo with Lightroom for effect.

This is the first in what will be a few posts and photos from our little trip to Nagano.

Ohmi Tetsudo #3

2011-06-05T23:56:00.001+09:00

05.05OhmiTetsudo-4, a photo by sleepytako on Flickr.

A closeup of the logo on one of the train cars.

Makes a good desktop background.

Ohmi Tetsudo #2

2011-06-02T23:26:00.002+09:00

Shiga, where the Ohmi Tetsudo runs, reminds me a bit of San Deigo and Imperial counties along the Mexico / California border in the USA. The rural-industrial use of the land. Factories and factory farms to the large population of Brazilian-Japanese who work in those factories.

I thought this photo with the Kirin brewery in the background, the farm outbuildings in the middle-ground and the Ohmi Tetsudo line in the foreground did a good job of encapsulating this part of Shiga.

The Ohmi line shown is the Taga line that travels 2.5km towards the mountains from the Ohmi main line. One of the two stops on the line has the odd and rare name in katakana スクリーン (Screen), The station is named after the factory it serves and is located in front of: Dai-Nippon Screen MFG. CO..

Ohmi Tetsudo Trip #1

2011-06-01T22:55:00.002+09:00

05.05OhmiTetsudo-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

In the beginning of March I was able to take a day out to ride the entire legnth of the very rural private train line Ohmi Tetsudo 近江鉃道. Ohmi being the old name for the area of Shiga prefecture where the entire length of the railway runs. The Ohmi trains run through the farm and factory dotted inland section of the prefecture somewhat parallel to the JR lines that run through the prime, more populated areas that border Lake Biwa.

Here densha otaku enjoying the day off are taking photos as my train stops in Hino 日野 station waiting for the southbound train to pass.

Engyoji Shoshazan 円教寺書写山

2011-05-25T13:12:00.002+09:00

04.04Engyoji-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

Engyoji is the main temple at Shoshasan a few minutes drive, cable car, and walk north of Himeji Castle. This gorgeous temple is part of the Western Japan 33 temple route and is also famous for being a filming location for "The Last Samurai." I've never seen the film and I don't have any desire to, but it brings in many tourists. The temple and environs are totally worth the beautiful 1km uphill hike from the cable car terminal.

04.20 JR Mikunigaoka JR三国ヶ丘駅

2011-05-01T22:47:00.001+09:00

04.20JRMikunigaoka-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

The Sunset In Ako

2011-04-13T19:50:00.002+09:00

03.28AkoSunset-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

The wonderful view from the Ginpaso ryokan in Ako, Hyogo.

Quakebook

2011-04-13T19:03:00.001+09:00

I saw the original call for submissions for this Twitter sourced book of writings about the Tohoku earthquake and started to write something. Sadly, I never submitted my piece, but many writers--who are much better than I--did! 100% of the revenues go directly to the Japanese Red Cross for earthquake relief. I'm getting my copy later tonight. I hope you consider getting a copy yourself.

More info on the Quakebook blog: http://www.quakebook.org/
Or on twitter: #quakebook

The tools of a pilgrim

2011-04-09T13:38:00.003+09:00

03.29ichijoji-tools-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

Hair dryer for drying the ink on your tapestry, wooden block to hold the tapestry from rolling up, and sheets of scrap paper to put over the drying ink.

一乗寺、加西市、兵庫県
Ichijo-ji, Kasai, Hyogo
March 29, 2011

Ichijo-ji 一乗寺

2011-04-04T23:13:00.002+09:00

A note to my readers: I am returning to blogging as usual in part as an effort to show to the world that the rest of Japan is getting on after the recent disaster. Our hearts and prayers are with the people in Tohoku--of course. That said, we cannot be in mourning forever. For the country to recover--mentally and economically--we need to return to normality as soon as we can in the areas unaffected by the earthquake. If there is one thing the Japanese can do best, it's their ability to bounce back after extreme trauma. Despite what you might be seeing in the foreign news media, people in Kansai and throughout Japan are living their lives going to work and enjoying this lovely time of year. Please join me in remembering the suffering of those in Tohoku while celebrating the beauty of this country that I call my home.

Along the Saikoku 33 Temple route in Kansai there are many temples. Some of them are in, or close to, major population centers and are attractions irregardless of their designation in the Saikoku 33. Others are in out of the way places tucked into tall mountains. Some are in some not so easily accessible places. While every temple offers a sense of beauty and transcendence, I have to say I enjoy the peacefulness of the latter. Ichijo-ji in rural Kasai city is a stellar example of one of these temples.

Ichijo-ji is located not far from Kakogawa-kita IC on the Sanyo highway up a winding road and just past a newly built pet cemetery. The temple is at the end of a long set of stairs nestled into the surrounding mountains. It is said to have been founded in 650 B.C.E. The oldest remaining building is a 5-story pagoda built in 1171. The pagoda is registered as a national treasure.

After climbing up the stairs, with my smiling 10 month old daughter strapped to my chest I might add, Yuko and I removed our shoes and entered the main temple. The cool wood boards, made smooth by the hundreds of feet that have walked upon them, felt great on our feet.

Inside the cool mountain air circulated through the building and spreading the incense around the building. The calm and quiet was omnipresent. This truly is a spiritual place.

With all the sadness and suffering in Japan and the world around us at this time, taking time out to offer a silent prayer is the least we can do.

Ichijo-ji 一乗寺 Data:

Address: 821-17, Sakamoto, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2222 / 兵庫県加西市坂本町821-17 [ Google Map ]

Links: [ Wikipedia ] [ Hyogo Tourism ] [ Sacred Japan ]

Sakuragumi Restaurant - Ako

2011-04-03T21:42:00.001+09:00

¥3,670 sounds like a lot for a lunch. At least for me! That's an expensive lunch. As soon as we finished the appetizer plate however, we felt like we had gotten our money's worth. Everything from then--pasta, pizza, main dish, dessert, coffee--just kept on astonishing Yuko and myself.

Sakuragumi is a southern Italian style restaurant in the little seaside community of Ako. This small town is better known for the tale of the 47 Ronin and salt production--the latter being used in most of Ako's omiyage including the great shiomi manjyu sold through out the city. The seaside walk and landscape is somewhat reminiscent of Italy, and my home town of Laguna Beach come to think of it. Combine the beautiful landscape with the restaurant's location on a small cliff overlooking the ocean, and furnishings in the restaurant itself with the food and you actually might think you were in Italy. Outside and in, Sakuragumi is designed to give you the sense that you are no longer in Japan. High airy ceilings, white walls, large wooden tables all come together to help produce this feeling.

The food is just amazing. Our appetizer plate came with 5~6 different bits of seafood, vegetable and meat based delicacies. All of them very nicely arranged on a large plate for us to share. After that a pizza came, the restaurant's specialty, and a pasta made with locally caught shellfish. The pizza, like the restaurant, doesn't cater to Japanese tastes as it was heavy on blue cheese. A possible deal breaker for some Japanese patrons. The pasta was also cooked al dente--a great change from what I'm use to here in Japan. We chose a meat dish and got a pork roast with peppercorns and salad. The pork was slightly crispy on the outside while the inside the meat almost melted in my mouth. All of it was perfect.

All in all one of the top five best meals I've ever had, and at ¥3,670 a head it was a steal. Combine all this with a pleasant, friendly staff a great drink menu that included a nice list of Japanese micro-brews and you've got a real culinary delight.

Reservations are necessary. We made ours two weeks in advance and the restaurant was full the entire time we were there. They had to turn away quite a few walk-ins too. If you can't get a reservation, they seemed to be doing take out pizza. I didn't ask about it however. We also brought our 10 month old baby and they were very accommodating to her. The couples at the tables next to us all enjoyed smiling at waving at her too. A great experience

Sakuragumi website [Japanese]: http://www.vera-pizza-sakuragumi.co.jp/

Coming Into Kibukawa Station

2011-03-22T15:34:00.001+09:00

02.10Kibukawa-Station-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

HankyuSannomiyaAoyamaAngel

2011-03-21T23:24:00.001+09:00

03.21HankyuSannomiyaAoyamaAngel-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

Resolutions.
-Upload less photos.
-Take more time with the ones I do.
-Try to get some people into my shots.

Are you in Atlanta, GA?

2011-03-19T14:15:00.002+09:00

I MADE A MISTAKE. The Auction was on SATURDAY the 1/19th. It's already over. From what I hear many pieces sold and a lot of money was raised.

Video about the show:

http://artrelish.com/2011/03/19/life-support-japan-at-jennifer-schwartz/

In Atlanta this ~~Sunday~~ SATURDAY? Go and see one of my photographs, along with other wonderful shots by real photographers, in a silent auction at the Jennifer Schwartz Gallery in Atlanta. Of course the proceeds will be donated to Tohoku Earthquake Relief.

More information at the site below:
http://www.jenniferschwartzgallery.com/index.php?option=com_zoo&task=item&item_id=462&Itemid=11

I'd like to thank my super good friend Hannah for getting my photo into the show. Hannah, you're the best. I hope to see you soon.

Earthquake Update - One week on.

2011-03-18T09:54:00.001+09:00

It's been a week since the quake hit. It's been a fast, fast week.

A big heartfelt thank you to everyone who has been sending their thoughts, hopes and prayers to me and to all of Japan. It's been moving to see such an outpouring of love and caring.

On Yuko's advice, I've stopped reading Twitter all day and tried to do some other things with my free time. Sitting and watching the news nonstop can really make you feel pessimistic.

I've heard stories of people leaving, and families of friends here asking them to return. I'm having none of that. I'm staying, and that goes for my friends here too. We live here. Japan is our home.

I'm still posting and retweeting some good and some not-good stuff @sleepytako

To keep me busy though I started a new blog on Tumblr.

http://hyakukoto.tumblr.com/

It's a simple project that I'm sure others have done. I'm going to list 100 things that I like about Japan and living here. The reasons why I'm staying. The reasons why I'm not leaving. So, check that out if you have time.

Thanks,
David

The Wait

2011-03-14T11:32:00.000+09:00

It's absolutely insane. Going back to work and trying to act "normal" helps, but random things make me tear up. It's horrible being so close but so unable to help.

The wait is the worst part.

News fatigue has really set in. Yuko, my wife, is stronger than I am. also, She doesn't show her fears despite being sick for the last couple of days. I guess that's how people here deal with the stress. Looking around the school today and watching the teachers, I can see the same behavior. People acknowledging the earthquake happened but not discussing it.

Yuko is tired of all the media hype--which is no where the level of hype that is going on in the states. She doesn't want to see any more destruction. There's a point where the news we need to know ends and voyeurism beings.

"Besides NHK the other channels should go back to regular broadcasting." she said.

She fears the sound of the helicopters is drowning out the shallow voices of anyone trapped in the rubble. I gather that they banned most helicopters from the sky above Christchurch after the earthquake there.

In passing around the house I've been wondering aloud about volunteering and going up to the quake damaged areas. Last night Yuko said that she wants me to stay near the house.

"What would I do with out you around?" She wondered aloud fearing the consequences of a earthquake hitting Kansai. That really centered me. What would we do? What if I was at work? How would we meet up? What about our daughter Mia?

I'm at work. There's not much work however as the semester has just ended. I'm preparing a photo of mine to go into a silent auction for quake relief being held in Atlanta by a friend of a friend next Saturday. That's keeping me from reading my Twitter feed all day.

Today is White Day if you didn't know. It's the antithesis of Japan's Valentine's Day. On White Day boys give chocolates to the girls. I baked cookies. Sunday afternoon was spent in the kitchen of my friend's bar where they have an oven. I got away from the news and busied myself baking. It felt good.

Passing out the cookies today also helped. I made enough cookies, along with little bags with stickers that said "Happy White Day from David" in a cutesy font, to give to all the female staff in the school. Hopefully it cheered them up. A little happiness in this rough time. Giving is cathartic.

But, now that's over. Back to the long wait. The long silence.

I think I'm going to have a cigarette.

My Twitter Feed

2011-03-12T19:48:00.000+09:00

I've been tweeting a storm watch me on twitter, follow @sleepytako or read it on this post

Earthquake Update

2011-03-11T19:55:00.002+09:00

Update 12:30 Japan time:
Yuko's extended family that lives in up in Tokyo seem to be ok. It's hard on them but they are ok. Our friends who live in the area also ok. One of them saw the big oil fire in Chiba in person. Again... we're all ok but worried about everyone else.

Live NHK from Japan:
http://www.ustream.tv/channel/nhk-gtv

============================

Yuko, Mia and I are ok. Nothing broken in our house. I was at work at the time. In Nishinomiya Yuko didn't feel it and Mia slept through it. I was at work on the 3rd floor of a old school building. I had a class of 6 university students at the time. The quake lasted for a very long time. It felt we were on a boat. No rough shocks, just a gentle undulation. Like we were on a boat. It left people queasy but no one was hurt. All of our junior and high school students were sent home. Fortunately, there weren't many students there at the time in the first place.

Once more... we are ok, but there's really no telling how bad things are up north. I'm very worried about everyone up there and hope they are safe.

You can watch NHK via Ustream in Japanese here: http://www.ustream.tv/channel/foxtokimekitonight

There's also the NHK World app for iPhones / iPod Touch that has the current NHK feed with an English live translator.

Google person finder: http://japan.person-finder.appspot.com/?lang=en

Just in via Twitter NHK as I type this 19:54 JST:

In the disaster area Bic Camera is offering cell phone charging for free and all Suntory vending machines are now free.

Narita is not accepting flights.

The trains are not running in the effected areas.

The nuclear power plants are all safe now. No leakage.

Shigaraki Kogen Railway

2011-02-28T19:15:00.001+09:00

Shigaraki Station 信楽駅

One of the nice things about Japan is that there is always something to explore. Someplace to go. I love flipping through Mapple's railway maps of Japan. Extremely useful for any train journey throughout Japan--even if your command of the Japanese language might not be as good as you wish it was. Flipping through the pages of the Kansai edition, I found a third sector railway line that I hadn't ridden yet.

Third sector lines like the closed Miki Railway or its neighbor the Hojo Railway are former JR lines that were slated for closure after the split up and privatization of Japan National Railways in the late 1980's. Like the two lines mentioned above municipalities ended up buying and running the lines instead of letting them die. Some like Miki Railway have eventually proven to be too much of a drain on the local coffers and ended up closing.

The Shigaraki Kogen Railway or KTR has stayed in operation since being jointly bought by the city and prefecture in which it runs. Thankfully KTR allows access to a touristy area based around the local pottery industry adding to its ridership.

Looking down the line to Shigaraki from near Kibukawa Station

I rode up the short 14km length of the KTR's one line on a cold snowy winter's day. The cold desolate landscape reminded me somewhat of eastern Montana. I enjoyed watching at the small, almost inconceivable, stations pass by along this one-man line.

Matching the areas fame for pottery KTR sells a clay tablet ticket that I didn't have the chance to buy since I had already paid for my paper ticket. I'm not the kind of guy to pay for a ticket twice. Maybe next time. It would make a great addition to my office wall.

Shigaraki Station 信楽駅

Because I was short on time and it was really cold out, I decided to take the next train back to Kibukawa station where the line starts and intersects with the JR and Ohmi Railway lines to continue my train journey for the day. I'm planning on going back to Shigaraki, although by car, the next time my mother comes out. I think she'll enjoy looking at the pottery shops there.

KTR is also infamous for a fatal accident that occurred along the line in 1991 killing 42 people and injuring 614 others. One of Japan's deadliest railway accidents.

Tsukaguchi, Amagasaki Fire

2011-02-18T11:41:00.003+09:00

UPDATE Saturday, 19th 18:15 (JST): Added the video.

Along the Hankyu railway tracks next to Tsukaguchi station in Amagasaki there was a rather large fire that burnt down 2000 square meters of commercial buildings. The Tsukaguchi Chuo Market consisted of a few restaurants and food stalls all of which burnt down by my observation. There was a small standing bar in the market which I had been to a few times.

The fire was first reported to authorities sometime after 2AM Friday morning. Danger from the fire along with the hoses and firefighting crews blocking the tracks lead the Hankyu Kobe line to be delayed for over an hour. Once trains started running again at 6:30 the stations were full of passengers waiting to get to work. They were also only running local trains. It only took me a few more minutes to arrive at my job, but it took a coworker over an hour to complete a 20 minute commute. For the both of us and all of the people heading into Osaka from Kobe, got a taste of the Tokyo commute this morning. It was packed, painfully so.

Thankfully no one was hurt or killed in the fire although 20 people living in nearby buildings have been evacuated. The cause is still under investigation.

The Hankyu trains are still running slowly or off schedule. Please be aware of this if you're traveling along the Kobe line today.

Links in Japanese
Asahi-TV (video): http://news.tv-asahi.co.jp/ann/news/web/html/210218012.html
NHK (video): http://www.nhk.or.jp/news/html/20110218/t10014136351000.html
Kobe Shimbun: http://www.kobe-np.co.jp/news/jiken/0003811396.shtml
Hankyu Railway Information Page: http://rail.hankyu.co.jp/railinfo/
尼崎　塚口駅　火事　阪急電車

More Snow - Kurakuenguchi Station

2011-02-15T09:51:00.000+09:00

Looking towards Koyoen.

It's rare for this much snow to accumulate in Nishinomiya.

Poor scooter. One half of it was left unprotected from the snow.

It's Cold and Snowing.

2011-02-14T15:25:00.000+09:00

I haven't seen snow this heavy in my neighborhood since 2005. Surprising and cold. I'm looking forward to going home in this weather.

Best of 2010

2011-02-05T14:36:00.000+09:00

Here are what I think were my best photos of the last year. With the baby coming and changing jobs 3 times, I didn't get much photo time in. Looking at Lightroom, I took 800 less photos than I did in 2009. Also most of those photos I took this year were of little Mia.

Hopefully I'll be able to get out and get some more shots in 2011.

In order by date, the top 5 photos I took in 2010 according to me.

On the beach in Ako

Looking down on the shops lining the street to Seigantoji

The lovely beach at Hane in Shimane

Exercise equipment in Osaka city

Old sign, old building in Nara

Mumblings of an Old Man - マヤンの呟き

2011-02-05T13:52:00.001+09:00

02.04MayanNoTsubuyaki-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

Not so cheap sake...

I got this buckwheat (soba) shochu for my birthday. It's worth it for the bottle and the name, but the taste is wonderful.

It smells like straight alcohol but with a subtle whiskey smell in the background. Somewhat spicy.
The first thing that gets you when you sip it is the thick, slippery mouthfeel. A bit oily.
The favor has a sweetness, but not as sweet as some shochu. It's the most scotch tasting of any shochu I've had. The kick in the aftertaste is pleasantly strong.

I've had it straight or rocks. Both good.

マヤンの呟き
Mumblings of an Old Man
Miyazaki
38%
Ingredients: soba, koji, rice.
(I'm guessing mayan is a local term for oyaji?)

Morning Along the Shukugawa River

2011-01-03T11:47:00.000+09:00

A CBS Sunday Morning like walk along the Shukugawa River I took this morning. Everything is so peaceful over the New Year's holiday.

Akaoni to Aooni no Tango

2011-01-03T10:53:00.000+09:00

(OP・ED) 赤鬼と青鬼のタンゴ OP
アップロード者 Milfy. - 音楽動画、アーティストのインタビュー、コンサートやその他色々。

I just saw this on a Songs of the 70's show on NHK. The Red and Blue Ogre Tango. BUNNIES!!!

December Nara Photo Walk

2011-01-03T02:37:00.002+09:00

Last month I went on a photo walk with my boss and a coworker. We had a wonderful time and really stretched our legs. It was enjoyable experiencing photography with other people. I typically do all my photo taking alone, with headphones on, lost in my own mind. This time I was giving and getting suggestions along the way. My boss also introduced me to Byakugoji, an amazing hillside temple that I hadn't visited yet. One of the most amazing temples that I've been to. So pristine and stoic in it's simple beauty. I'll be talking more about Bayakugoji in a later post.

I took about 300 shots on our walk and cut that down to 5 that I'm happy with. Here are those shots from my December Nara photo walk.

This was my first time doing a photo walk, and I hope it wont be the last. Thanks Mr. M and Mr. Y.

Happy New Year 2011 from sleepytako!

2011-01-02T08:17:00.000+09:00

Happy New Year everyone and thanks for following, reading and watching this space.

Translation: Happy New Year! We have a new member in our family this year. Please welcome her kindly.

(somethings just don't translate well into English)

Koguma's New Year Message is here.

My Christmas Gift To My Liver

2010-12-25T14:38:00.001+09:00

12.25WinterBooze-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

For Christmas and New Year's Eve I've got myself 2 magnums of Anchor Brewing's always wonderful winter beer. One of those is for Christmas night. The bottle of Goshon sake is for New Year's. It was Yuko's father's favorite brand, so I'm really looking forward to having (and sharing) it!

It's a Snowy Christmas!

2010-12-25T14:30:00.001+09:00

12.25SnowyChristmas-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

A bit of snow is slowly floating to the ground now in Nishinomiya. Although it's not accumulating, it's still quite beautiful.

Merry Christmas from Sleepytako...

2010-12-24T17:11:00.001+09:00

enjoy a smoke...

or a kiss.

Thank you for checking out my little blog this year. I'm working on some fun projects for the coming year. I hope you'll stick with me until then.

Merry Christmas or, as my students say, メリクリ!

Live Crab Vending Machine - In Shanghai

2010-12-23T18:27:00.001+09:00

OK. Now I'm getting worried about China's growth. They are encroaching into Japan's long held title as the country with the oddest vending machines.

A live crab vending machine has been introduced in Shanghai. The crabs sell for ¥200 to ¥600 depending on quality. These crabs are selling well too. They are reporting sales of 200 crabs a day.

The vending machine is kept at -10c to put the crabs, which are packed in plastic cases, into a state of hibernation. The company that runs the vending machine is also offering a refund of 3 fresh crabs if your crab is... dead on delivery.

The Japanese article and video is here.

Walking Around An Early Winter Osaka

2010-12-18T13:13:00.000+09:00

Hashimoto, Yawata, Kyoto

2010-12-15T11:04:00.000+09:00

Common in Japan is a neighborhood map such as this. The houses are identified with the resident's last name instead of a street address or house number.

Months ago, when it was still hot and sweaty out, I took a trip to ride the remainder of the Keihan lines that I had not been on at that time. After riding the Otokoyama Cable Car, Keihan's only cable car, I walked down the back of the mountain towards Hashimoto station on the Keihan Main Line. Otokoyama itself was quite interesting. There was a fine old shrine, a park, and a memorial to Thomas Alva Edison. The latter being something that I feel would warrant inclusion in the Japanese version of Roadside America.

The trees in the distance cover a small shrine on this steep street.

The hilly neighborhood of single family houses connected by steep narrow streets provided an interesting walk. I'm glad I don't walk up those streets coming home from work everyday however.

I've learned how to judge the population of a neighborhood by the size of their mailboxes.

The ku and su of kusuri (medicine) are barely hanging on to the side this pharmacy in a small enclave of commercial buildings set among the houses.

We Can Ship To The States Again!

2010-12-08T12:32:00.001+09:00

Quick note here. If you were annoyed by the 470g limit on packages to the USA that happened in mid-November, it's been lifted as of December 1st. Well, if my Japanese serves me right it has.

Here's the press release:
http://www.post.japanpost.jp/int/information/2010/1129.html

Sunday Walk Along the Shukugawa

2010-12-05T16:54:00.000+09:00

Hanshin Expressway - MukogawaIC Loop

2010-11-29T13:43:00.000+09:00

The Mukogawa off ramp on the Hanshin Expressway is one of the most elegant pieces of urban infrastructure in Kansai. Driving it is boring, but looking at it from below is breathtaking. A large loop towering over the local community center, park, and a few houses.

The expressway traveling down the narrow coastal plain between the mountains and Osaka bay offers a great view of how this area has been developed. Typically congested, it allows the driver to take in some of the scenery while waiting in bumper to bumper traffic.

I grabbed this shot while driving towards Kobe around 4pm. The sky was just incredible.

Nishiki SA - 西紀SA

2010-11-10T20:57:00.002+09:00

A quick tour of Nishiki SA on the Maizuru-Wakasa Expressway (Maizuru side). I enjoy a lovely bowl of wild boar udon... very recommended if you like wild boar.

A sign advertising the wild boar udon, soba and sweet black bean soft cream

My wild boar udon

大きな地図で見る

Yonegees ヨネギーズ

2010-11-06T19:03:00.000+09:00

Yonago, Tottori is a city 148,000 people along the Japan sea coast. It's a local population center and provides access to Kaikae onsen and Minatosekai, the home of Gegege no Kitaro.

Negita

I love traveling along the San'in coast and stopping at Yonago station is always a highlight. Don't know why, but I really Yonago.

Recently the city created it's own mascot characters. Something not too uncommon, but the Yonegees are just way too cute, with a touch of the ehhhh...

Negiko

The city's mebutsu or famous thing is green onions, and using the green onion motif they created a boy and girl green onion character. Negita and Negiko. Ta and Ko are common kanji used in boy's and girl's names. Negi being the Japanese word for onion. Negita and Negiko are joined by Kashiwagi-san an acorn character.

The characters all have full backgrounds, including the date of Negita and Negiko's marrage--March, 31, 2005.

Kashiwagi-san

The tourist info center at Yonago station sells various Yonegees goods. They have their own page on the Yonago city website. You can even download graphics for your cellphone. Oh, and of course... they are on Twitter... as am I!

Pins and a cell phone strap that is also a screen cleaner

The towel is sold rolled up like this so it looks like a green onion. The tape is the same tape used on real onions you'd get in a super market

Close up of the characters on the towel

The Fantastic Trains of Keihan

2010-10-14T18:59:00.000+09:00

A newer car on the left. An older model on the right.

Keihan stations never seem to be level.

Keihan operates a single cable car line to the top of Otokoyama.

Keihan trains are always very clean on the outside. Design is important.

This is one of the most unique features of Keihan trains. They have bench seats that raise up into the ceiling during rush hour making more standing space and opening up another door.

Keihan operates between Kyoto and Osaka hence the name kei (京) for Kyoto and han (阪) for Osaka. They have some of the best appointed trains running, including trains with TVs and double decker trains. I always enjoy riding Keihan when I have the chance. This last trip on Monday, October 11th riding the Keihan spur lines to Uji and Kisaichi, and the cable car up to Otokoyama means that I have ridden every on every Keihan line operating.

Deer Biscuts

2010-10-14T18:15:00.002+09:00

09.25Nara-21, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

It's awful for people!

In Nara Park there exists a herd of deer which wander through the crowds just like the rest of the tourists. Well, that's until you buy a bundle of the deer biscuits (shika senbei 鹿せんべい). Then you get hounded just like Justin Bieber arriving in Osaka.

Yes! We have an Engrish menu.

2010-10-02T11:35:00.000+09:00

In January of this year I took an evening trip to Sakai city to try out Sarasa-no-Yu (さらさのゆ) a newish supersento that touted a carbonated water bath. After enjoying the wonderful baths there, I made my way to the restaurant and discovered some of the best Engrish I have ever encountered. I only just went through the photos on my old cellphone and found the time to upload them now. So please to be enjoying the food of gastromnic blissfulness from the restaurant at Sarasa-no-Yu.

Sermon decoration
(You remember when Jesus gave the sermon to the salmon about household decorations)

Soon tofu with pig innards
(Soon -not- to be in my stomach!)

On special Steaming scorch of pig ribs and coconut
(The worst part of this one is there is no coconut in that. Moyashi = coconut?)

Fibrous beef boiled for hours
(Hours of boiling enjoyment!)

Fry without coating of length potato
(This is my new most favorite best Engrish EVER)

2010 August Train Trip Day 3

2010-09-09T18:46:00.000+09:00

Video from the third day of riding trains. This video is my last leg from Tottori back to home in Hyogo. By the end of the video my camera's battery died.

In this video JR West and Chizu Express trains along the following route: Yonago -　Torrori - Chizu - Kamigori

米子-鳥取-智頭-上郡

Along the following lines:
San'in Main Line, Inbi Line, Chizu Express Chizu Line

山陰本線、因美線、智頭智頭急行智頭戦

Hane / 波根

2010-09-06T15:54:00.000+09:00

The beach at Hane station.

After sweating through all of my clothes on my way to and from Yunotsu Onsen a nice swim was in order. Consulting the Railway Mapple (recommended for any train trip) I figured that little Hane station was the closest to a beach. The little village, abandoned by any tourist traffic that might have been there merely a month ago, looked totally shut down. Little beach-side hotels, restaurants, and bars were all shut down for the season or under repair. Abandoned while the weather was hot and the swimming was great. Why the lack of beach goers? Typically the first half of August is taken up by Obon where you visit your relatives houses and pray at your ancestors graves leaving no time--or money--for going to the beach. Also, August is the month where all of the Kami, the various Shinto gods, gather in Izumo Taisha, a grand Shinto shrine located ironically a few train stops north of this beach. During this time it is thought to be unsafe to enter the water.

Housing along the road in front of Hane station

Either way there were no stores open along the beach, and only a few people bathing. I ducked around one of the giant concrete tetrapods to exchange my sweaty clothing for my bathing suit and dashed into the water. Swimming in the calm waters of the Japan Sea never cease to be one of the most amazingly blissful experiences I can have in Japan. Never too cold or too hot and always great for just floating and staring up into the massive blue sky above you. Such a peaceful and transcendent moment can scrape off many months of built up stress like plaque being taken from tooth. Just writing this, I'm thinking of how can I get back to the Japan Sea one more time before the weather changes.

The shadows offered little relief from the afternoon sun, not that I wanted any.

In the water, I chatted with some jr. high school girls who came in about the same time that I did. Shimane doesn't get many foreign tourists, and out here in the middle of no where even less. Sadly, their English comprehension and typical bashfulness did not let them go beyond a simple, yet giggly, "Hello!" Floating there in the water I talked to them in Japanese for a while. They thought it very cool that I lived in Nishinoimya to which I replied that I wished I could live in Shimane. I tried to teach them to say good afternoon, said good bye, and swam back to the shore. I was getting hungry and needed to search for a shower of water faucet of some kind to rinse my self off before returning to the trains.

A closed storefront, or just a house? Abandoned or not? I could not tell.

Leaving my damp swimsuit on and putting on my boots only, I took off along the shore. I stuck my dry, yet stinking of sun baked sweat, clothing in a bag to carry with me. My body soaked up the sun. I didn't care if I got a burn. A sign of total relaxation in the Japan Sea it would be. I thought to myself. Walking down the beach and back up the main street, I couldn't find a public shower or water faucet anywhere. Hoping there might be at the station I returned there to find nothing. Some stations have water taps on the platform for riders to use, this one, the one that I really needed it, didn't. Returning to the beach I saw a family using one of the outdoor showers mounted on the wall of a hotel. I asked if I could use the water too, but they replied that they weren't sure if they could use it either. Another person at the beach told them that the showers worked and that it *should* be OK to use. I jumped into the ocean once more as I waited for the family to finish and quickly, as I didn't want to abuse the hotel's unknowing kindness, washed the salt and sand from my skin.

Now my thoughts turned to my grumbling stomach. People say there are convenience stores and vending machines everywhere in Japan. That's right, up until you really need one. Walking the opposite direction form the station as I came, I found a little supermarket. Putting on a shirt I entered and enjoyed the cool radiating from the ancient coolers. Old refrigerators make a much better feeling cool for some reason. A sale priced tonkatsu, some fried chicken and spinach salad made my lunch. But where was the beer? A bit father down the road the cashier told me.

Looking towards Matsue and Yonago from Hane station.

The liquor shop was not that far down the street. I entered the unlit and sparsely stocked store to find no one working. A loud "sumimasen" brought out the mother of the house to take my money for two cans of Asahi. By this time I was afraid of missing my train. I'd have to wait an hour or more if I missed this train. Getting to the station with time to spare, I adjusted my bags and got ready to ride the trains again. Once the train appeared, however, there was a problem. It was packed.

Hane station.

I let the train go with out me on board, and chilled out in the heat of the station building eating my food and drinking my beer. A older couple came and were looking for the time table or map of the area, I let them look at mine. An hour later I got on the train. I hoped the smell of my soaked and dried out shirt and jeans didn't stink up the train as I watched the sun set on Shimane. It was dark as I arrived at Yonago in Tottori prefecture. I entered Shimane the same day before the sun had risen and left after it had set.

大きな地図で見る

Yunotsu Onsen, Shimane / 温泉津温泉、島根

2010-08-29T14:20:00.000+09:00

Old store front along the main road to the onsen.

Yunotsu Onsen is a very Shimane town. Lost in the Japan sea side of Honshu this little onsen village recently has had a tourist boost thanks UNESCO naming a near-by sliver mine as a world heritage site. While I doubt that will increase foreign tourists to the area, it has made it much more important to the local Japanese tourism market which really plays up the world heritage title.

Senyakuto, a very simple and oldest bath in the village. 

There are two day use (日帰り外湯) baths in the village. I, sadly, had time for only one. The water here was incredible. The well puts water out at about 49c which is then cooled to around 45c for the hot tub and around 41c for the normal tub. One of the best bathhouse experiences I've ever had.

Notice the stone stairs behind the truck. It looked like the original town was carved into the sides of the mountain. 

A butterfly-like insect on the flowers in front of Senyakuto

Great rusted storefront on the way from the station to the onsen.

Abandoned-looking industrial building on the small harbor.

Yunotu Station.

I Love ゆ - Update

2010-08-26T20:04:00.000+09:00

I've been working very hard on getting my new onsen/sento webpage "I love ゆ" up this last week. I focused just on the reviews of onsen/sento in Hyogo and while I haven't yet figured a way to get my database data up on the web, I did put this Google map together. I hope to find a way to integrate it into the page, but as for now check out all the places I've taken a bath in Hyogo!

View Larger Map

Gotsu Station and Environs - 江津駅と駅前

2010-08-25T21:33:00.000+09:00

Gotsu Station platform.

I had a 1 hour wait for my next train heading along the coast towards Yonago, my final destination for the night. After riding a train for 4 hours, I needed a bit to eat and a walk. Gotsu is the biggest station for a while, but it's still a pretty small town. These towns along the Japan Sea coast get beat by hot summers and brutal winters. I've experienced both seasons. Both are beautiful. The rural areas like this are getting hit by a lack of young people who move away for better jobs and more opportunities. The areas near the stations also seem to be taking a hit due to the increased ownership of private automobiles. The new shopping areas are increasingly built around places easily accessed by car leaving the areas near the station to slowly turn into what we see now.

The loading docks of a, I presume shuttered, business.

A street with bars and restaurants.

The entrance to a local sento (bathhouse). It looked like it was shut permanently, but I was there in the morning and could be wrong.

In Gotsu station.

大きな地図で見る

2010 August Train Trip Day 2

2010-08-21T18:55:00.002+09:00

Day 2 of my August Seishun 18 Kippu Train Trip.
Video from the JR West trains and stations along the following route:
Miyoshi - Gotsu - Yonago
三次 - 江津 - 米子

Along the following lines:
The Sango Line and the San'in Main line
三江線と山陰本線です。

Miyoshi / 三次市

2010-08-19T11:43:00.000+09:00

Tenant-less building near Miyoshi Station

Miyoshi is the Japanese version of Missoula, Montana. Mountain town. Intersection of major, yet rural, transportation. On a river. Small, yet fighting, tourist infrastructure. Seemingly depressed economically. Perfect for a photographer with an eye for detritus.

Signs celebrating the ukai along the Gonokawa River.

The city has a small ukai event going on. Ukai, for those who don't know is fishing using a living bird. I saw two boats full of tourists on the river watching it the night I went.

Sign at the entrance to Miyoshi's snack bar district and the entrance to Chibi, a closed bar.

I had the best tonkatsu, fried pork, dinner in Miyoshi. Riding my rental bike from the hotel I searched for a restaurant. It took a while on a grumbling stomach. I road by this place once and the smell was great, but, I rode on looking for whatever else was there. 15 minutes later I returned to Tonkatsu Wakaha (とんかつ和佳葉). Yes, I spent ¥2,000 on dinner, but IT WAS GREAT. I cannot recommend this little tonkatsu place more. Oh, and they have more reasonable things on the menu. I just went big that night.

Tonkatsu Wakaha... So good!

Bridge over Gonokawa.

I only had a few very tired hours riding around Miyoshi and wished I had more. The old house district was quite nice and I found everyone there very friendly. If my travels ever take me near there again I hope to spend some more time checking out the city and the amazing nature that surrounds it.

Out of service booze vending. In service planters.

Pedestrian walkway across the Gonokawa river.

Monument (name marker?) for the river. Notice how the government agency which originally placed the marker has changed names since it was first placed. 

大きな地図で見る

Bingo-Ochiai Station 備後落合駅

2010-08-18T20:11:00.001+09:00

Station Sign

Located at the intersection of three prefectures, two train lines and in the middle of Japan's #1 island, Honshu, Bingo-Ochiai is in the middle of nowhere. This use to be a more important station when train travel was more important to the nation's transportation infrastructure. There was a turntable and house there for the staff to stay during long layovers. Now there's the shuttered up house over grown with plants, one small station building, a sink with out a faucet, and three platforms for the trains that go there. The Geibi line does not go straight through to Hiroshima from Niimi, those customers who want to travel through must change trains here. The even more local Kisuki line going to Shinji in Shimane heads north terminates at Bingo-Ochiai also.

Looking back towards Niimi

All three trains arrive at nearly the same time allowing everyone to cross over to their next train. I doubt many people... if any... end their day's travels here. But, it's not just changing trains as you can see in this video a pretty good number of people are taking photos with the trains and station in the background. Why? This is an epicenter for train enthusiasts, aka densha otaku 電車オタク. The remoteness of the station, the rarity of the trains that come here, and those who ride the lines for completeness like me find Bingo-Ochiai an important stop on their train journeys.

Granted, that I've only been here on the Seishun 18 Kippu I've never seen the station during a non-tourist time, but it seemed the motive of everyone coming here was to ride the trains coming here and transit at this station. Perhaps when most of the densha otaku are at work or prohibited from such trips for cost reasons the ridership coming to this station turns to just local ridership. The amont of crazed people with cameras and tripods would decrease greatl. It would be interesting to see the numbers and how the Seishun 18 Kippu effects the numbers of people using this station.

Looking Back Towards Niimi

Is this station kept in operation for riders like me and those you'll see in the video? Is it economically sound to keep this station and the lines linking to it operational? To what degree is this station kept in operation for the densha otaku vs. the normal local ridership? How strong is the influence of Japanese history and train culture to keeping this wonderful place open? The consolidation of the cities in Japan, privatization of state to citizen relationship and the changes in the government vs. governed social contract that it entails all effects the current situation and the future of this place.

I'm one of those crazies with the cameras too!

Now it's an amazing sight to see and participate in the unbridled train love that goes on here. Finding and exploring places like this is one of the best pastimes there is in Japan and getting to and from Bingo-Ochiai couldn't have been any more fun.

大きな地図で見る

August 2010 Train Trip Video Day 1 Part 2

2010-08-18T18:09:00.002+09:00

Footage from the train and stations along the following route:
Niimi - Bingo-Ochai - Miyoshi along the Geibi Line in Northern Okayama Pref. and Hiroshima Pref..

More about Bingo-Ochai station and Miyoshi city in my following posts.

August 2010 Train Trip Video Day 1 Part 1

2010-08-15T19:14:00.001+09:00

On August 9th I got up at 5 AM to begin my now yearly August train trip using the Seishun 18 Kippu. For those of you who don't know the Seishun 18 Kippu lets you ride regular JR trains (e.g. no express trains) across Japan for any 5 days during a given period. It costs 15,500 yen and is very popular with train dorks (me), families, and college students. During the weeks building up to the trip I spend hours planning routes, pouring through timetables, and studying maps. It's almost as fun as the trip.

This years trip brought me in a loop from Kobe - Okayama - Niimi - Miyoshi - Gotsu - Yonago - Tottori - Chizu - Kamigori - Kobe. Here is the video from the first half of my trip from Kobe to Niimi.

Niimi Ekimae - 新見駅前

2010-08-15T17:02:00.002+09:00

This is the first of a few posts and videos about my Seshun 18 Trip this year through the Chukoku region of Japan on local train lines.

Niimi station

Niimi is a station in a city of the same name in the mountainous back country of Okayama prefecture. In other words, it's up in the mountains that make the backbone of Honshu--Japan's main island. The train line and major areas of the city parallel the Takahashigawa river. The station is a crossroads for local lines that cross from the Pacific and Japan sea coast of Japan. From here Lines connect through to Hiroshima, Okayama and Himeji on Pacific ocean side and Yonago and Shinji on the Japan sea side.

I came through here once on one of my first novice Seishun 18 Kippu trips riding the line from Shinji in the early spring and I remember it being rather cool. This time in the middle of August it was hotter and more humid than I expected.

Niimi seems like it would be a nice place if you had a car and could get around the area further from the station, but it's nowhere on the tourist map. Because I only had and hour till my next train, I quickly explored the area in front of the station and picked up some lunch.

Looking down river back to the Seto Inland Sea.

In front of the station is this statue commemorating something I don't know. Statues and taxi/bus lanes like this are common for larger stations in the rural areas of Japan.

Looking down the street that leads to the station. Reminiscent of cities in Montana or the Dakotas back in the USA.

Old Toshiba electronics dealership. I love the old rainbow logo on the sign.

More signs downtown. The red lantern like one is for a local festival.

Takahasigawa looking downstream.

Stairs leading up the embankment 

Takahashigawa looking upstream.

Platform information in Niimi station.

大きな地図で見る

Raffinato Anniversary Dinner

2010-08-05T20:12:00.002+09:00

Raffinato, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

Yuko and my amazing 2nd anniversary dinner was at Raffinato in Ashiya. Way too good.

From top to bottom:
Sea urchin on a carrot mouse
Grilled hamo (a type very soft white fish)
I forget, some seafood pasta that Yuko got. I had a prosciutto thing instead.
Bacon spaghetti
Yuko's fish main dish of locally caught fish
My Sanda beef main dish
Dessert

Not the cheapest place in the world, although lunch is reasonable. It starts at about ¥5,000. I totally recommend going here for something special. We both left very happy. The chef even comes out and thanks you personally at the end of your meal.

Raffinato's website [in Japanese]: raffinato-ashiya.com

大きな地図で見る

The Webcam Is Online

2010-07-19T12:37:00.001+09:00

I put a webcam up showing the street in front of my house.
It's a little side project I've been working on for months now thanks to my mother's love of webcams around the world. The cam is being hosted at iloveyu.jp my onsen/sento/hot spring/bathing in Japan site. That site is completely under construction also. Until it's finished this page might not be the prettiest, but at least it's online!

A Rainy Saturday Morning In Kurakuenguchi

2010-07-14T23:51:00.001+09:00

Taken earlier this month, it shows some heavy rain falling in Hyogo Pref., Japan. Today the rain was so heavy in the morning that a weather warning was issued and classes were canceled. Although there were no classes, I still had to go to work. The rain didn't rain constantly today, as it did on the day I took this video, but I rained extremely heavy in bursts lasting a few minutes.

Cheap Sake - Prime Draft, The Hite.

2010-06-22T21:21:00.001+09:00

06.22PrimeDraft-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

Prime Draft - The Hite.

No it's not a movie. No it's not a even "beer". It's a happoshu, and it was 105 yen at the Lawson 100 on Route 2 in Nishinoimya. And...

It had no flavor.

There was no hite of flavor or taste. Just mildly beer tasting liquid.

But for the price. Not too bad compared to some of the more expensive happoshu out there.

Father's Day Treat

2010-06-21T15:30:00.001+09:00

06.20Father's Day Treat-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

This was my Father's Day treat from my lovely sister-in-law Mayako. I'll send a little Japanese gift to the reader who can guess what it is. Guess in the comments, please.

Kubota Baby Scale

2010-06-13T15:54:00.000+09:00

We got this scale from one of Yuko's friends. (Thank you so much for that!) I love this box. The '70s colors, strange medical-ish feeling fonts and design were great, but look at the picture of the little kids there. It's like space children flying to earth on their space-scale-ships.

Hello Mia!

2010-06-10T21:46:00.002+09:00

06.06TakingMiaHome-1, originally uploaded by sleepytako.

I haven't been writing on this blog (sleepytako) or working on iloveyu.jp too much recently because of a new addition to my family. Mia was born on Monday, May 31 at 8:14AM after a very long night. We took her home Sunday, June 6th. The photo was us in the clinic for the last time. My wife and I are super happy and, as you might tell from the photo, super tired. Although I have a blog for Mia, mostly for family and friends, I hope to post some of the odder, quirkier bits about being a gaijin-papa here at sleepytako. I've got some great packaging photos coming up this weekend, but for now I need to shower and sleep.

Things I Love: The Mukogawa River

2010-06-10T18:45:00.000+09:00

A video I took while on a bike ride to Amagasaki. It was a great early summer afternoon and the water was so beautiful.

Cheap Sake - Gold Onigoroshi

2010-05-27T19:26:00.000+09:00

Surprisingly this box of karakuchi sake isn't making me gag, it's actually quite nice. Being that I'm enjoying this box of 100 yen booze this isn't that interesting. I thought this 100 yen swill would make me gag and I'd drunkenly describe how horrible it is to you. Drat.

Anyhow, I can wholeheartedly recommend Gold Onigoroshi box. Only 100 yen at your local home center.

Above Osaka - Shigisan

2010-05-02T16:07:00.003+09:00

At the end of the Nishi-Shigi cable car is Takayasusan station [高安山駅], a public toilet, one vending machine, a hiking trail and a bus station. Not much up there to see fit that a cable car should be built there. I hiked south along the trail eventually heading down the mountain back to Onji station.

Along the path I came across a sprawling cemetery complex. Many mountaintops have been covered with the stones we use to remember our ancestors here. The cost and scarcity of land for such a staid purpose in the city has created these giant cemetery complexes in the mountains. My father-in-law's resting place is in a similar cemetery in the mountains above Nishinoimiya.Besides the cemetery I came across three gloriously retro-due-to-age observation towers which offered similar views of Osaka below.

A sign greeting visitors to the Takayasusan Cemetery.

Takayasusan station.

Beginning of the hiking train leading south from Takayasusan station.

A viewing tower along the hiking path near Takayasusan Station.

From this tower you can look across Osaka to the bay, or, on the other side, look upon a sea of gravestones.

April 29th Kintetsu Train Loop.

2010-05-01T22:41:00.000+09:00

The video I took on my last day riding trains around Kansai using the Suttro Kansai Thru Pass.

Again I mostly rode Kintetsu trains in southeast Osaka prefecture and southern Nara prefecture. Like last time I also got to ride another cable car.

Note: I think I miss labeled my previous video saying it was the 29th when it was really the 19th.

The Way To Seigantoji

2010-04-26T12:12:00.001+09:00

Looking down towards the parking lots.

The walks leading up to popular temples are often dotted with souvenir shops and little stalls selling snacks. The stalls leading up to Seigantoji used the cool water flowing off the mountain to cool there drinks. Making them look much more appealing.

Cool drinks.

The water returning to the drainage canal.

Ikomasan 生駒山

2010-04-25T12:56:00.001+09:00

The Jet Roller wasn't closed, but no one was operating it either.

On the top of Mt. Ikoma forming the border between Nara and Osaka prefectures is a theme park. Accessible by car or the cable car line from the Kintetesu station far below. The theme park is spotted with the many bright white and red towers of Osaka's many radio and TV stations making a stark juxtaposition or just a testimonial to the multiple use ethic of Japanese developers. I went there on a crisp Monday morning last week. I found the park to be devoid of any guests and staff. Perhaps the most active things in the entire park were in the dog play area. A very rambunctious little black dog was attempting to mate with a larger, older golden one who gracefully ignored the offers.

Tin roofs showing through the foliage on the path down the mountain.

Deciding to walk down the hill proved fun, yet brutal on my legs which still hurt a bit. That slope was steep. Still, it's under an hours walk down and it goes through some *interesting* streets, a beautiful temple and shrine and a great forest.

The cable car station on the top of the mountain.

An ancient vending machine left to die slowly along the way. 

Kintetsu Loop

2010-04-21T19:40:00.002+09:00

Last Monday I took a train trip using the super-useful Suttro Kansai 3 Day Pass. Well, it's useful if you plan to cross the entire Kansai region 3 times in a 2 month window. For example, if you're goal in life is to ride every train line in the Kansai region, then you'll find it, as I said before super-useful. I knocked a few entire lines off my list Monday using the ¥5,000 pass. I took a lot of video on my trip and cut it down to 10 minutes of trains, stations, and cable cars. Enjoy.

The trip went:
Hankyu Umeda -> Kintetsu Nanba -> Kintetsu Ikoma -> Kintetsu Gakken Nara Tomigaoka -> Ikoma cable car -> Kintetsu Oji -> Kintetsu Tawaramoto -> Kyoto -> Keihan Tanbabasi -> Yodoyabashi -> Hankyu Umeda

New Cellphone Message

2010-04-13T21:53:00.000+09:00

My wife and I moved to AU from Docomo... finally. I had AU when I first moved to Japan and really liked their phones and service. Since then I have used Docomo and found their phones and services uninspired. Anyhow, if you know me personally and want my new phone number and keitai email address send me an email.

Thanks!

sleepytako

Oito Line Loop Route Pt. 1: Adventure!

01.04 Toyama City Street

Nariai-ji 成相寺 #28

Chome-ji 長命寺 #31

New Year's Letter... Looking back on 2011

Nara Park Photowalk

Happy New Year: 2012!

Kakogawa Greenhouse

11.20 Kakogawa Gas Station

11.20 Kakogawa Apartment Building

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #5

10.10 Sports Day Trip to Tsuruga #4

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #3

10.10 Sports Day Trip To Tsuruga #2

10.10 Yamashina Station Kiosk 山科駅

10.10 Sports Day Trip to Tsuruga #1

08.02 Anaoji Garden

08.02 Anao-ji 穴太寺

09.04 ShinImamiya Station 南海新今宮駅

Looking Back #4 Estate - Lincon, Montana

Symbols for Large and Small

09.04 Morning Beer and Betting

Looking Back #3 Imperial Food Market

Xingiang Time @ Myopic

Burger King has Come to Kansai

Hyogo: More on Meibutsu

Japanese Landsape: City of Bags - Toyooka

Looking Back #2 - Recycled Roadrunner

My Local Bar: The Wexford Tavern

Looking Back #1 - No Pallet Parking

Matsumoto Dentetsu (Alpico Kotsu) - Kamikochi Line | 松本電鉄 (アルピコ交通) 上高地線

The Azusa River Tepco Hall, near Matsumoto, Nagano.

Matsumoto Pottery Shop

Ohmi Tetsudo #3

Ohmi Tetsudo #2

Ohmi Tetsudo Trip #1

Engyoji Shoshazan 円教寺 書写山

04.20 JR Mikunigaoka JR三国ヶ丘駅

The Sunset In Ako

Quakebook

The tools of a pilgrim

Ichijo-ji 一乗寺

Sakuragumi Restaurant - Ako

Coming Into Kibukawa Station

HankyuSannomiyaAoyamaAngel

Are you in Atlanta, GA?

Earthquake Update - One week on.

The Wait

My Twitter Feed

Earthquake Update

Shigaraki Kogen Railway

Tsukaguchi, Amagasaki Fire

More Snow - Kurakuenguchi Station

It's Cold and Snowing.

Best of 2010

Mumblings of an Old Man - マヤンの呟き

Morning Along the Shukugawa River

Akaoni to Aooni no Tango

December Nara Photo Walk

Happy New Year 2011 from sleepytako!

My Christmas Gift To My Liver

It's a Snowy Christmas!

Merry Christmas from Sleepytako...

Live Crab Vending Machine - In Shanghai

Walking Around An Early Winter Osaka

Hashimoto, Yawata, Kyoto

We Can Ship To The States Again!

Sunday Walk Along the Shukugawa

Hanshin Expressway - MukogawaIC Loop

Nishiki SA - 西紀SA

Yonegees ヨネギーズ

The Fantastic Trains of Keihan

Deer Biscuts

Yes! We have an Engrish menu.

2010 August Train Trip Day 3

Hane / 波根

Yunotsu Onsen, Shimane / 温泉津温泉、島根

I Love ゆ - Update

Gotsu Station and Environs - 江津駅と駅前

Engyoji Shoshazan 円教寺書写山